So you’ve decided to plunge into the world of jewelry and buy some pearls … now what? Do you know what kind of pearls to buy? What size? Color? Necklace length if you’re getting a strand of pearls? How do you buy pearls online, sight unseen?

We get it — that’s a lot of questions to ask someone who doesn’t really know exactly what they want (or need). We also know that pearls are a really unique gemstone, one that most people don’t know very much about.

This quick step-by-step guide on How To Buy Pearls aims to solve those problems (at least most of them!) by walking you through the decision making process. We’ll help you determine what pearl type to buy, how much you should spend, necklace lengths — everything you need to know about how to buy real pearls is right here!

Let’s get to it.

Table of Contents:

Setting a Budget

Choosing Your Pearl Type

Should You Buy Akoya or Freshwater Pearls?

Choose a Pearl Color

Learn About Pearl Grading

Hanadama and Gem Grade Pearls

Choosing the Right Pearl Vendor

Picking the Right Pearl Size

Decide on a Pearl Necklace Length

This is the easiest step — as a matter of fact, you’ve probably got that done already! But a lot of people are reticent to discuss money issues. That’s understandable, however, this one issue is actually REALLY important!

How much you spend will define your range of choices, affecting which type of pearl you should be considering, the size, and the style of the jewelry, etc. Having this information from the start will save everyone time, and make sure you aren’t disappointed with the options if your budget is tight.

This is the most important question that needs to be resolved when you’re learning how to buy a pearl necklace or pair of pearl earrings. After you’ve decided on a pearl type, everything else just starts to fall into place, and the rest of the decision-making process goes pretty quickly. There are five main pearl types to choose from:

• • Japanese Akoya

  • Freshwater Pearls from China

  • White South Sea Pearls

  • Golden South Sea Pearls

  • Black Tahitian Pearls

All of these pearl types have something wonderfully unique about them, with plenty to love and admire about each one. Below click on the tabs and we’ll go through basic info on each type, with a detailed focus on the two varieties most customers end up deciding between: Akoya and Freshwater pearls.

Pro-Tip💡

“If you’re comparing pearls side by side, always look at the luster first. A pearl with strong luster will appear bright and lively, while lower-quality pearls tend to look dull or chalky.”
Kevin Canning
Founder, Pearls of Joy

As we mentioned earlier, the bulk of pearl buyers are going for that “classic” white pearl necklace of moderate, versatile size, good luster, and nice uniformity of matching in terms of size, color, shape and quality.

That means that for most customers, the question of pearl type is going to boil down to that age-old question: should you buy Akoya pearls, or Freshwater??

Both pearls are prized for being white with nice luster, and are always beautifully matched. But there are some differences between the two pearl types that you should know about to make an informed purchase.

That should be the quick and dirty comparison for those looking for a fast answer. People who want to dig deep into comparing these two pearl types should visit the link below:

📢 Read More: Should You Buy Akoya or Freshwater Pearls?

Many people don’t know this, but pearls come in almost every color of the rainbow, from white to purple!

Pearls of Joy founder and president Kevin Canning routinely goes overseas to pearl auctions and jewelry shows to locate exceptional pearls with stunning colors, like those in the photo above. Whether you’re looking for classic white pearls, or something more exotic, Pearls of Joy is the place to start!

If you want white pearls, you’ll be choosing from:

• • White Akoya Pearls

  • White Freshwater Pearls

  • White South Sea Pearls

 For black pearls, you can choose from:

• • Black Akoya Pearls (dyed)

  • Black Freshwater Pearls (dyed)

  • Black Tahitian Pearls (natural colors)

For lavender or pink pearl colors, you should focus on:

• • Pink Freshwater Pearls

  • Peach Freshwater Pearls

  • Lavender Freshwater Pearls

 For golden color pearls, there are more options than just Golden South Sea! Choose from:

• • Golden South Sea Pearls

  • Golden Akoya Pearls (rare!)

📢 Read More: Guide to Pearl Colors

Should you go for the AA+, the AAA, the AAAA or AAA++ pearls?? So many A’s!! How do you know which to choose?

Unfortunately, decoding the world of pearl grading isn’t very cut and dried, and this is because there is no universally accepted grading system for pearls across all pearl types. Each pearl type is unique, with its own distinct properties. You can’t grade Tahitian pearls like you would Akoya pearls, or Akoya pearls like you would South Sea pearls or Freshwater.

Some vendors make things even more difficult by using their own proprietary grading system, making it almost impossible to compare pearls between different brands. It can be pretty confusing!

Happily, Pearls of Joy sticks with the simplest, easiest grading systems that rely on set metrics for pearl attributes, like surface quality, luster grade and nacre thickness (among other factors).

There are two grading systems to understand:

• • A-AAA (for Akoya): Based on the Japanese Akoya grading system. “AAA” denotes the highest quality Akoya pearls and “A” represents the lowest.

• • A-D Tahitian Grading Scale: Applied to Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater pearls. “A” represents the highest quality pearls, and “D” represents the lowest. The A-D Scale translates easily to an A-AAAA Grading Scale here in the United States, where “AAAA” is equivalent to the highest “A” grade, and moves down from there.

Because we stick with only those two Grading Systems, you won’t see pearl grades that are “inflated” by creating whole new grades like AAAA+ or AAAAA. That’s a game some vendors play to assign “extra high” grades to pearls that would be less-than-top-tier anyplace else.

By using the A-AAA Scale for Akoya pearls, known as the Japanese Grading Scale, and A-AAAA for Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater pearls, we are able to simplify pearl grading into a series of specific criteria that need to be met in order for a pearl to earn its grade. A short examination of our two top grades should give you all the information you need to know about how we evaluate real pearls.

Remember, only imitation pearls are perfect! Expect to see tiny inclusions or other small imperfections “gifted” to your pearls by nature … think of them like a built-in identification system, marking the pearls out as yours and yours alone.

AAA Grade Pearls

• • Surface Quality is 95% Clean or better.

  • Luster is Very High to Excellent: Reflections on pearl surface should be Easily Recognizable.

  • Pearl Earrings are clean on the front and sides.

  • Pearl Necklaces and Bracelets will be blemish-free for casual observers. Some tiny inclusions are allowable, but nothing major.

  • Akoya pearls should feature Excellent matching for necklaces and bracelets. There should be virtually no difference between each pearl in a necklace, bracelet or matched set.

  • AAAA Quality Freshwater pearl necklaces, bracelets and matched sets will have very little difference in matching for shape, size and surface quality. 

AA+ Grade

• • Surface Quality is 90-95% Clean or better.

  • Akoya pearls feature thick nacre measuring 0.4 mm or more. Freshwater pearls are solid nacre.

  • Luster is Very Sharp to High: Reflections on pearl surface should be Very Good, mostly distinguishable with some slight blurring.

  • Earrings are clean on fronts. One to two small inclusions allowable on sides or backs.

  • Pearl Necklaces and Bracelets will be mostly blemish-free for casual observers.

  • Akoya pearls should feature Excellent to Very, Very Good matching for necklaces and bracelets. There should be little to no difference between each pearl in a necklace, bracelet or matched set.

  • AAA Quality Freshwater pearl necklaces, bracelets and matched sets may feature slight differences in matching for shape, size and surface quality. They’ll still give you that classic pearl necklace look, and imperfections will appear very minor, especially to the casual observer.

Let’s also take a moment to mention the very highest quality pearl collection we offer: Certified Hanadama Japanese Akoya pearls.

Hanadama pearls are certified by the esteemed Pearl Science Laboratory of Tokyo, Japan, to be Akoya pearls with the very highest levels of luster, the thickest nacre layers and the most pronounced iridescent orient (which they call “Aurora”) of all Akoya pearls from each AAA Quality pearl harvest.

Hanadama Akoya pearl grades will meet the exacting standards of AAA Quality pearls — as they should, since they are pulled from AAA Quality saltwater pearl harvests — but were chosen by the pearl farmer as having exceptional luster, color and surface quality.

For pearl jewelry buyers looking to purchase the very best of the best, Certified Hanadama Akoya pearls would be our very first recommendation!

Similarly, Pearls of Joy’s AAAA Quality “Gem Grade” Freshwater Pearls are an excellent option for pearl shoppers who want luster levels and roundness of shape that approach the Akoya pearl, but at a significant reduction in costs.

While these pearls aren’t certified by the PSL like Hanadama pearls are, AAAA Grade Freshwater pearls are sourced from the top 1-2% of each Freshwater pearl harvest. Each pearl is selected for its near-perfect round shape, high levels of luster and 95-99% clean surfaces.

The AAAA Freshwater pearl grade represents an excellent value for the price!

📢 Read More: Are Freshwater Pearls Real Pearls?

📢 Read More: Guide to Pearl Grading

There are hundreds of different vendors to consider when buying pearls — which brings a whole host of issues! Trying to compare vendors, grading scales, jewelry styles, prices … we know it can cause a few headaches!

Whether you choose to stick with Pearls of Joy, or decide to take a chance with someone else, we have a few thoughts about what to look for when choosing a seller.

Look around their site for pages like this one. Every vendor should clearly and simply explain who they are, how they grade their pearls and what their recommendations are.

• • Beware of pearl jewelry with inflated grades like AAAAA or AAAA++. Read up on pearl grading so you know what to look for when buying pearls.

  • Compare prices across vendors for similar styles of jewelry. Pearls with extremely high prices for classic, “bread and butter items” should make you look elsewhere. Alternatively, pearl jewelry with prices that seem “too good to be true” — e.g., the average across multiple vendors is $350, but this seller has the same strand for $150 — are a big red flag.

  • Generous and easy Return Policies are a MUST. Pearls of Joy offers a Free 100 Day Return and Exchange period so you can make sure you love your new pearl jewelry.
    
    Watch out for vendors that try to make returning your pearls difficult by creating short return windows, or are located overseas where you will be limited in terms of getting a full refund if the vendor decides to just stop responding to your concerns. 

• • Be very wary about buying pearls from places like eBay. These sites are filled with unscrupulous sellers trying to pass off cheap Freshwater pearls for Tahitians or Akoya pearls! This is incredibly common, and getting a refund from these scammers is very difficult.

This might sound a bit intimidating to shoppers looking to purchase pearls for the first time. In fact, it might sound easier and safer to stick with legacy brand names like Mikimoto Pearls or Tiffany’s instead, and just not have to worry about pearl grades and return policies!

But keep in mind that while these brands are familiar, they are incredibly expensive, and you may not get the pearls of your dreams for the budget you’ve established. Luxury brands routinely charge 300% mark-ups (or more!) for that famous name.

Picking a vendor like Pearls of Joy can save you hundreds to tens of thousands of dollars by delivering the same quality — just without the luxury branding. With our track record of excellent pearl education, sourcing our pearls direct from pearl farms around the world, and offering fine pearl jewelry at wholesale prices, we think you’ll love buying from Pearls of Joy!

📢 Read More: Are Mikimoto Pearls Worth It?

Now that you’ve settled on the pearl type, color, and quality, the next step is to decide which pearl SIZE to buy.

For the vast majority of pearl buyers, especially first time pearl buyers, you’ll want to stick with the sweet spot, which ranges from about 7.0 to 8.0 mm and 9.0 to 10.0 mm in size.

The most popular and versatile pearl necklace and earring size is 7.0 to 7.5 mm. This size works really well for most young ladies and women ranging from ages 18 to their 60s, and is appropriate for almost all occasions, from working at the office to a special night out.

Pro-Tip💡

“Pearl size often gets the most attention, but balance is key. A well-matched strand with excellent luster and color will usually look far more elegant than simply choosing the largest pearls available."
Kevin Canning
Founder, Pearls of Joy

Very young girls or petite women will appreciate the smaller size ranges of 5.0 to 7.0 mm, which are demure enough to be worn by petites without overpowering their frames. For young girls, this size range will appear age-appropriate, rather than “too old” for the wearer.

Larger pearl sizes give the appearance of luxury, elegance, subtle command and wisdom; as a woman gets older, her character and life experience allows her to wear larger and larger pearls comfortably and appropriately. Starting in the mid-thirties, it makes sense to branch out to pearl sizes starting at 9.0 to 10.0 mm and up.

It’s important to note that after pearls reach the 7.5 mm size, pearl prices begin to increase exponentially with each half-millimeter size increment. This is because larger pearls take longer to grow and are rarer. So a 10.0 to 11.0 mm pearl will cost nearly 25% more than a 9.0 to 10.0 mm pearl of the same quality.

📢 Read More: Guide to Pearl Sizes

If you are shopping for a pearl necklace, then you’ll want to decide on the perfect length.

The most popular pearl necklace length is the 18” princess length, which should hang anywhere from 1 to 2 inches below the collarbone for adult women with an average build. The slightly shorter 16” choker necklace is perfect for a more vintage look.

Women with larger frames may need slightly longer pearls in order to get the same look, so consider the 20- or 22-inch necklace lengths (called the Matinee). Longer strands like the 36-inch, and pearl ropes of 54 inches and longer, are excellent choices for women wanting to add some extravagant glamor, or who are interested in wearing layered pearl necklaces.

📢 Read More: Pearl Necklace Length Guide

Chances are, you already have an idea of the type of jewelry you’d like to buy, whether it is a pair of pearl earrings, a strand of pearls or a pretty pearl pendant. But many people get stuck trying to decide on a design or style.

A few more questions to ask yourself before buying cultured pearl jewelry are:

• • Does the person you’re buying for have a traditional style? If so, opt for classic white pearl necklaces, simple pearl stud earrings or a single strand pearl bracelet.

  • If they prefer to wear pearls that are more modern in style, then consider items like sleek Tin Cup necklaces, long pearl ropes, colorful ombré strands or long pearl dangle earrings.

• • Do they prefer slim, minimalist and dainty jewelry? Or are they more ostentatious with the jewelry they like to wear?

• • Do they prefer white or yellow gold? If they wear a wedding ring or other daily favorite piece of jewelry, consider coordinating with that.

• • If there is a particular event that the pearls are being purchased for, like a wedding? If so, take into consideration the neckline and style of dress that she’ll be wearing so that the pearls complement the attire rather than interfere or steal the spotlight.

Answer a few of these questions, and you’re well on your way to buying the perfect pearl jewelry for your loved ones, or yourself!

And that’s How to Buy Pearls like a pro! If you have any questions about your pearl jewelry purchase, feel free to contact us any time. We’d be happy to discuss your concerns and ideas.

• • Hanadama Pearls 101
  • South Sea Pearl Buying Guide
  • Tahitian Pearl Buying Guide