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How to Buy Pearls

How To Buy Pearls - A Step by Step Guide

So you’ve decided to plunge into the world of jewelry and buy some pearls … now what? Do you know what kind of pearls to buy? What size? Color? Necklace length if you’re getting a strand of pearls? How do you buy pearls online, sight unseen?

We get it — that’s a lot of questions to ask someone who doesn’t really know exactly what they want (or need). We also know that pearls are a really unique gemstone, one that most people don’t know very much about.

This quick step-by-step guide on How To Buy Pearls aims to solve those problems (at least most of them!) by walking you through the decision making process. We’ll help you determine what pearl type to buy, how much you should spend, necklace lengths — everything you need to know about how to buy real pearls is right here!

Let’s get to it.


Step 1 - Set Your Budget

Couple shopping for pearls online


This is the easiest step — as a matter of fact, you’ve probably got that done already! But a lot of people are reticent to discuss money issues. That’s understandable, however, this one issue is actually REALLY important!

How much you spend will define your range of choices, affecting which type of pearl you should be considering, the size, and the style of the jewelry, etc. Having this information from the start will save everyone time, and make sure you aren’t disappointed with the options if your budget is tight.


Step 2 - Choose Your Pearl Type

Black Tahitian Pearls and White Akoya Pearls Twisted Together In Front of a Grey Background


This is the most important question that needs to be resolved when you’re learning how to buy a pearl necklace or pair of pearl earrings. After you’ve decided on a pearl type, everything else just starts to fall into place, and the rest of the decision-making process goes pretty quickly. There are five main pearl types to choose from:

    • Japanese Akoya

    • Freshwater Pearls from China

    • White South Sea Pearls

    • Golden South Sea Pearls

    • Black Tahitian Pearls


All of these pearl types have something wonderfully unique about them, with plenty to love and admire about each one. Below click on the tabs and we’ll go through basic info on each type, with a detailed focus on the two varieties most customers end up deciding between: Akoya and Freshwater pearls.


Akoya Pearls

Akoya pearls are saltwater cultured pearls primarily from Japan, and are known by pearl lovers around the world as “The Classic” white pearl type. Famed for their mirror-like luster (luster is what gives pearls their shine and highly reflective properties), as well as their perfectly round and perfectly matched shapes, these are the pearls GIs brought home to their wives and girlfriends from overseas during World War II.

Akoya Pearl Basics

  • Versatile Yet Moderate Size Range: Akoya pearls are one of the smaller pearl types, and are available from 3.0 mm to 10.0 mm in size.
  • Perfectly Spherical Shapes: Famed for their perfectly round shapes, Akoya pearls are known as "Eight Way Rollers" for their ability to smoothly and evenly roll in all directions when placed on a flat surface.
  • Perfect to Near-Perfect Matching: Akoya pearls are famous for their almost perfect matching in jewelry. Akoya pearls will be painstakingly matched for color, overtone, size, surface quality and luster.
  • "Ball Bearing" or “Mirror-Like” Luster: Japanese Akoya pearls are renowned for their gleaming, glossy and highly reflective luster. High quality Akoya pearls should reflect the viewer’s face with very good detail.
  • Classic White Color: Saltwater Akoya pearls are famous for their classic white colors with overtones of rose, silver or cream. Other colors exist, such as blue, gold and dyed black, but the vast majority of the Akoya pearls you see will be in that classic white color.
  • Saltwater Pearl Origin: Cultured in the colder waters of the Pacific Ocean, Akoya pearls are grown in the pinctada fucata martensii saltwater pearl oyster. P. martensii is the smallest pearl-bearing oyster in the world, and can be found from Japan to China, Vietnam and Myanmar.
  • Average Price Range: $200 to $30,000 depending on the pearl quality, size and jewelry style you want to buy. 


Freshwater Pearls

Freshwater pearls from China are known for their palette of natural colors, large variety of shapes and sizes, and generally low price points. The white Freshwater pearls make them an attractive option for shoppers looking to purchase a classic white strand of pearls without spending a large amount of money. 

Freshwater Pearl Basics

  • Good Range of Sizes to Choose From:Freshwater pearls range in size from tiny 2.0 to 3.0 mm "seed pearls" up to 12.0 mm or so, making them suitable for pearl jewelry shoppers of all persuasions.
  • Mostly Off-Round Shapes: Freshwater pearls are known for their slightly off-round, oval, drop and even “rice krispie” and potato shapes. Only the highest quality Freshwater pearls — like our “Gem Grade” pearls — have perfectly round shapes like the Akoya.
  • Beautiful Natural Colors: Cultured Freshwater pearls come in a variety of natural pastel hues like pink, peach, lavender and white.
  • Softer Luster: Freshwater pearls are known for their soft, satiny luster, which is less intense than that of the Akoya pearl. Reflections in their surfaces will be slightly blurred and less recognizable, and the pearls will have a subtle glow rather than a bright, glossy shine.
  • Extremely Durable: Freshwater pearls are composed entirely of nacre, similar to natural pearls. This makes Freshwater pearls very durable, and an excellent value!
  • Freshwater Origin: Cultured in the hyriopsis cumingii freshwater pearl mussel hybrid found in lakes, rivers and man-made aquaculture ponds throughout China.
  • Average Price Points: Freshwater pearl jewelry can range in price from $10 to $10,000 or more depending on the jewelry style and exact pearl type. Traditional Freshwater pearls will range from $100 to $2,000, while the rarer "Edison" pearls will cost a very pretty penny.

Tahitian Pearls

Bold, daring and exotic, black Tahitian pearls from French Polynesia are the most famous naturally occurring black cultured pearls in the world. Loved for their colorful overtones, large sizes and captivating shades of light silver to ebony black, Tahitian pearls are a luxurious departure from classic white pearls

Tahitian Pearl Basics

  • Medium to Large Sizes: One of the larger pearl types available, Tahitian pearls range in size from 8.0 mm up to 16.0 mm and larger.

  • Wide Range of Shapes: From eclectic free-form baroques, to drops, ovals, barrels and buttons, to the most sought-after perfectly round pearls, Tahitian pearls offer a pearl shape for every style and budget.

  • Rare Natural Colors: Famous for their naturally occurring main colors of light silver to true jet black, Tahitian pearls are mainly sought after for their rainbow of overtones. The most famous overtones are peacock, green, blue-green, silver and rose amongst many, many others.

  • Satiny to Sharp Luster: With their large sizes and thick nacre layers, Tahitian pearls often feature a softer, more satiny luster than that of the Akoya. This produces effects like blurred edges of light reflections seen on the pearls’ surfaces, as well as less-recognizable facial features reflected when you peer into the pearl.  

  • Tahitian Origins: Cultured in the black-lipped saltwater oyster pinctada margaritifera, native to the French Polynesian islands.

  • Average Price Points:Tahitian pearl jewelry starts at $195 and can range up to $100,000 for luxury couture designs. The average prices you can expect to pay for earrings runs from $195 to $1,000 and necklaces start around $800 up to $10,000 for high quality, perfectly round strands.

White South Sea Pearls

Known as the “Queen of Cultured Pearls,” White South Sea pearls are a large, luxurious pearl type mainly from the sun-drenched coasts of Northwestern Australia. White South Sea pearls are loved for their bright, silvery-white colors tinged with rainbow iridescence and soft, satiny luster.

White South  Sea Baroque Pearl Necklaces on Jewelry Bust

White South Sea Pearl Basics

  • White South Sea Pearls are from Australia: The warm, sunny coasts of North and Northwestern Australia are famous for producing the finest White South Sea pearls in the world.
  • Medium to Very Large Sizes: White South Sea pearls are legendary as being the largest of all cultured pearls in the world. The size ranges begin at about 8.0 mm and get up to over 17.0 mm.
  • Wide Variety of Pearl Shapes: Like all other pearl types, there are a variety of pearl shapes for all pearl lovers to enjoy. From the rare perfect rounds to baroques, circled baroque pearls, smooth drops, ovals, buttons and asymmetrical free-form baroque pearls.
  • Natural Colors: White South Sea pearls are loved for their completely natural, unenhanced beauty. The pearls are simply scrubbed and polished after harvest, and are never subjected to artificial enhancement of any kind.
  • Softer, Satiny Luster: Like both Freshwater and Tahitian pearls, White South Sea pearls typically display a soft, “satiny” luster that looks like it glows from within rather than giving off a hard, bright shine.
  • White South Sea Pearl Origins: White South Sea pearls are cultured in the silver-lipped pinctada maxima saltwater pearl oyster — the largest pearl-bearing oyster in the world.
  • Average Price Points: White South Sea pearls are one of the more expensive pearl types to buy, with prices for earrings starting at $600, and necklaces ranging from $2,500 up through $500,000 for more couture designs and brands. Expect to spend between $600 and $2,000 for earrings and $3,000 to $40,000 for a fine quality necklace.

Golden South Sea Pearls

Gorgeous, glowing and golden, Gold South Sea pearls are some of the most expensive, luxurious and high-status pearls you can wear. These are not usually the pearls for first time buyers! Symbolizing status, wisdom and wealth, Golden South Sea pearls are known as the “Rolls Royce of Pearls.”

Golden South Sea Pearl Necklace on Jewelry Bust

Golden South Sea Pearl Basics

  • Golden South Sea Pearls are from the Philippines: The tropical islands of the Philippines are the perfect location to farm Golden South Sea pearls.
  • Medium to Very Large Sizes: Golden South Sea pearls are one of the larger cultured pearl types, ranging in size from 8.0 mm to over 17.0 mm.
  • Large Variety of Pearl Shapes: Perfectly round pearls are the most rare, and most sought after, but Golden South Sea pearls are available in a wide array of shapes like smooth drops, buttons, ovals, circled baroques, baroque shapes and free-form asymmetrical baroque pearl shapes.
  • Natural Golden Colors: Golden South Sea pearls are famous for their totally natural shades of yellow, champagne and golden hues. Shades of gold can range from pale yellow hues to 10kt gold all the way up to orangey 24kt golden tones.
  • Soft, Satiny Luster: Like White South Sea pearls, Golden pearls will usually feature a soft, “satiny” luster that is very pleasing to the eye. Reflected light sources viewed on the surface of the pearl will be blurry and diffused around the edges, and objects reflected on the surface of these pearls will be soft and indistinct.
  • Gold South Sea Pearl Origins: Golden South Sea pearls are cultured in the gold-lipped pinctada maxima saltwater pearl oyster variety, found throughout the Philippine Islands, Myanmar (Burma) and Vietnam.
  • Average Price Points: Golden South Sea pearls are one of the most expensive pearl types to buy. Prices for earrings start at about $450, with necklaces ranging from $1,500 up through $500,000 for luxury designs and brands. Expect to spend between $500 and $4,000 for earrings and $2,000 to $60,000 for a fine quality necklace.

Step 2b - Comparing Akoya vs Freshwater Pearls

As we mentioned earlier, the bulk of pearl buyers are going for that “classic” white pearl necklace of moderate, versatile size, good luster, and nice uniformity of matching in terms of size, color, shape and quality.

That means that for most customers, the question of pearl type is going to boil down to that age-old question: should you buy Akoya pearls, or Freshwater??

Both pearls are prized for being white with nice luster, and are always beautifully matched. But there are some differences between the two pearl types that you should know about to make an informed purchase.


Reasons to buy Akoya pearls

When To Choose Akoya Pearls

    • Perfectly round pearls with “mirror-like” luster are at the top of your priorities.

    • You want high-end “luxury” pearls that will be well-cared-for to maintain their beauty.

    • Your budget starts at $200 and up for earrings, and $400 and up for an Akoya pearl necklace.


When To Choose Freshwater Pearls

    • The slightly off-round pearls and satiny luster do not matter much to you, as long as the “classic” white pearl necklace look is achieved.

    • You want to wear pearls anywhere in both casual and formal settings without the pearls being damaged easily.

    • Your budget starts at $150 and up for earrings, and $200 and up for a Freshwater pearl necklace.


Reasons to buy Freshwater Pearls


That should be the quick and dirty comparison for those looking for a fast answer. People who want to dig deep into comparing these two pearl types should visit the link below:

Step 3 - Choose Your Pearl Color

Choosing a Pearl Color


Many people don’t know this, but pearls come in almost every color of the rainbow, from white to purple!

Pearls of Joy founder and president Kevin Canning routinely goes overseas to pearl auctions and jewelry shows to locate exceptional pearls with stunning colors, like those in the photo above. Whether you’re looking for classic white pearls, or something more exotic, Pearls of Joy is the place to start!

If you want white pearls, you’ll be choosing from:

    • White Akoya Pearls

    • White Freshwater Pearls

    • White South Sea Pearls

 For black pearls, you can choose from:

    • Black Akoya Pearls (dyed)

    • Black Freshwater Pearls (dyed)

    • Black Tahitian Pearls (natural colors)

For lavender or pink pearl colors, you should focus on:

    • Pink Freshwater Pearls

    • Peach Freshwater Pearls

    • Lavender Freshwater Pearls

 For golden color pearls, there are more options than just Golden South Sea! Choose from:

    • Golden South Sea Pearls

    • Golden Akoya Pearls (rare!)


📢 Read More: Guide to Pearl Colors

Step 4 - Choose Your Pearl Grade

Close-Up of Hanadama Pearl Necklace on  Pearl Science Certificate



Should you go for the AA+, the AAA, the AAAA or AAA++ pearls?? So many A’s!! How do you know which to choose?

Unfortunately, decoding the world of pearl grading isn’t very cut and dried, and this is because there is no universally accepted grading system for pearls across all pearl types. Each pearl type is unique, with its own distinct properties. You can’t grade Tahitian pearls like you would Akoya pearls, or Akoya pearls like you would South Sea pearls or Freshwater.

Some vendors make things even more difficult by using their own proprietary grading system, making it almost impossible to compare pearls between different brands. It can be pretty confusing!

Happily, Pearls of Joy sticks with the simplest, easiest grading systems that rely on set metrics for pearl attributes, like surface quality, luster grade and nacre thickness (among other factors).


There are two grading systems to understand:

    • A-AAA (for Akoya): Based on the Japanese Akoya grading system. “AAA” denotes the highest quality Akoya pearls and “A” represents the lowest.

    • A-D Tahitian Grading Scale: Applied to Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater pearls. “A” represents the highest quality pearls, and “D” represents the lowest. The A-D Scale translates easily to an A-AAAA Grading Scale here in the United States, where “AAAA” is equivalent to the highest “A” grade, and moves down from there.


Because we stick with only those two Grading Systems, you won’t see pearl grades that are “inflated” by creating whole new grades like AAAA+ or AAAAA. That’s a game some vendors play to assign “extra high” grades to pearls that would be less-than-top-tier anyplace else.

By using the A-AAA Scale for Akoya pearls, known as the Japanese Grading Scale, and A-AAAA for Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater pearls, we are able to simplify pearl grading into a series of specific criteria that need to be met in order for a pearl to earn its grade. A short examination of our two top grades should give you all the information you need to know about how we evaluate real pearls.

Remember, only imitation pearls are perfect! Expect to see tiny inclusions or other small imperfections “gifted” to your pearls by nature … think of them like a built-in identification system, marking the pearls out as yours and yours alone.


AAA Quality Akoya Pearls Example

AAA Grade Pearls

    • Surface Quality is 95% Clean or better.

    • Luster is Very High to Excellent: Reflections on pearl surface should be Easily Recognizable.

    • Pearl Earrings are clean on the front and sides.

    • Pearl Necklaces and Bracelets will be blemish-free for casual observers. Some tiny inclusions are allowable, but nothing major.

    • Akoya pearls should feature Excellent matching for necklaces and bracelets. There should be virtually no difference between each pearl in a necklace, bracelet or matched set.

    • AAAA Quality Freshwater pearl necklaces, bracelets and matched sets will have very little difference in matching for shape, size and surface quality. 


AA+ Quality Akoya Pearl Grade Example

AA+ Grade

    • Surface Quality is 90-95% Clean or better.

    • Akoya pearls feature thick nacre measuring 0.4 mm or more. Freshwater pearls are solid nacre.

    • Luster is Very Sharp to High: Reflections on pearl surface should be Very Good, mostly distinguishable with some slight blurring.

    • Earrings are clean on fronts. One to two small inclusions allowable on sides or backs.

    • Pearl Necklaces and Bracelets will be mostly blemish-free for casual observers.

    • Akoya pearls should feature Excellent to Very, Very Good matching for necklaces and bracelets. There should be little to no difference between each pearl in a necklace, bracelet or matched set.

    • AAA Quality Freshwater pearl necklaces, bracelets and matched sets may feature slight differences in matching for shape, size and surface quality. They’ll still give you that classic pearl necklace look, and imperfections will appear very minor, especially to the casual observer.

Let's Talk About Hanadama Pearls


Let’s also take a moment to mention the very highest quality pearl collection we offer: Certified Hanadama Japanese Akoya pearls.

Hanadama pearls are certified by the esteemed Pearl Science Laboratory of Tokyo, Japan, to be Akoya pearls with the very highest levels of luster, the thickest nacre layers and the most pronounced iridescent orient (which they call “Aurora”) of all Akoya pearls from each AAA Quality pearl harvest.

Hanadama Akoya pearl grades will meet the exacting standards of AAA Quality pearls — as they should, since they are pulled from AAA Quality saltwater pearl harvests — but were chosen by the pearl farmer as having exceptional luster, color and surface quality.

For pearl jewelry buyers looking to purchase the very best of the best, Certified Hanadama Akoya pearls would be our very first recommendation!


Strand of Hanadama Akoya Pearls Close Up on a PSL Certificate

Shop for Hanadama Akoya Pearls

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A Word About Gem Grade Freshwater Pearls


Similarly, Pearls of Joy’s AAAA Quality “Gem Grade” Freshwater Pearls are an excellent option for pearl shoppers who want luster levels and roundness of shape that approach the Akoya pearl, but at a significant reduction in costs.

While these pearls aren’t certified by the PSL like Hanadama pearls are, AAAA Grade Freshwater pearls are sourced from the top 1-2% of each Freshwater pearl harvest. Each pearl is selected for its near-perfect round shape, high levels of luster and 95-99% clean surfaces.

The AAAA Freshwater pearl grade represents an excellent value for the price!


Close Up of Lustrous Freshwater Pearls

Shop for Gem Grade Freshwater Pearl Necklaces

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📢 Read More: Guide to Pearl Grading

Step 5 - Choosing a Vendor

Model wearing a white pearl necklace


There are hundreds of different vendors to consider when buying pearls — which brings a whole host of issues! Trying to compare vendors, grading scales, jewelry styles, prices … we know it can cause a few headaches!

Whether you choose to stick with Pearls of Joy, or decide to take a chance with someone else, we have a few thoughts about what to look for when choosing a seller.

Things to Watch For

Look around their site for pages like this one. Every vendor should clearly and simply explain who they are, how they grade their pearls and what their recommendations are.

    • Beware of pearl jewelry with inflated grades like AAAAA or AAAA++. Read up on pearl grading so you know what to look for when buying pearls.

    • Compare prices across vendors for similar styles of jewelry. Pearls with extremely high prices for classic, “bread and butter items” should make you look elsewhere. Alternatively, pearl jewelry with prices that seem “too good to be true” — e.g., the average across multiple vendors is $350, but this seller has the same strand for $150 — are a big red flag.

    • Generous and easy Return Policies are a MUST. Pearls of Joy offers a Free 100 Day Return and Exchange period so you can make sure you love your new pearl jewelry.

      Watch out for vendors that try to make returning your pearls difficult by creating short return windows, or are located overseas where you will be limited in terms of getting a full refund if the vendor decides to just stop responding to your concerns. 
    • Be very wary about buying pearls from places like eBay. These sites are filled with unscrupulous sellers trying to pass off cheap Freshwater pearls for Tahitians or Akoya pearls! This is incredibly common, and getting a refund from these scammers is very difficult.


This might sound a bit intimidating to shoppers looking to purchase pearls for the first time. In fact, it might sound easier and safer to stick with legacy brand names like Mikimoto Pearls or Tiffany’s instead, and just not have to worry about pearl grades and return policies!

But keep in mind that while these brands are familiar, they are incredibly expensive, and you may not get the pearls of your dreams for the budget you’ve established. Luxury brands routinely charge 300% mark-ups (or more!) for that famous name.

Picking a vendor like Pearls of Joy can save you hundreds to tens of thousands of dollars by delivering the same quality — just without the luxury branding. With our track record of excellent pearl education, sourcing our pearls direct from pearl farms around the world, and offering fine pearl jewelry at wholesale prices, we think you’ll love buying from Pearls of Joy!


Step 6 - Pick a Pearl Size

Akoya Pearl Necklaces in Various Sizes Compared to a US Nickel


Now that you’ve settled on the pearl type, color, and quality, the next step is to decide which pearl SIZE to buy.

For the vast majority of pearl buyers, especially first time pearl buyers, you’ll want to stick with the sweet spot, which ranges from about 7.0 to 8.0 mm and 9.0 to 10.0 mm in size.

The most popular and versatile pearl necklace and earring size is 7.0 to 7.5 mm. This size works really well for most young ladies and women ranging from ages 18 to their 60s, and is appropriate for almost all occasions, from working at the office to a special night out.


Model wearing a 7.0-7.5mm White Pearl Necklace


Very young girls or petite women will appreciate the smaller size ranges of 5.0 to 7.0 mm, which are demure enough to be worn by petites without overpowering their frames. For young girls, this size range will appear age-appropriate, rather than “too old” for the wearer.


Model wearing a small pair of pearl stud earrings


Larger pearl sizes give the appearance of luxury, elegance, subtle command and wisdom; as a woman gets older, her character and life experience allows her to wear larger and larger pearls comfortably and appropriately. Starting in the mid-thirties, it makes sense to branch out to pearl sizes starting at 9.0 to 10.0 mm and up.

Model wearing a large pair of pearl stud earrings


It’s important to note that after pearls reach the 7.5 mm size, pearl prices begin to increase exponentially with each half-millimeter size increment. This is because larger pearls take longer to grow and are rarer. So a 10.0 to 11.0 mm pearl will cost nearly 25% more than a 9.0 to 10.0 mm pearl of the same quality.


📢 Read More: Guide to Pearl Sizes

Step 7 - Decide on a Pearl Necklace Length

Model wearing multiple necklaces in various popular lengths


If you are shopping for a pearl necklace, then you’ll want to decide on the perfect length.

The most popular pearl necklace length is the 18” princess length, which should hang anywhere from 1 to 2 inches below the collarbone for adult women with an average build. The slightly shorter 16” choker necklace is perfect for a more vintage look.

Women with larger frames may need slightly longer pearls in order to get the same look, so consider the 20- or 22-inch necklace lengths (called the Matinee). Longer strands like the 36-inch, and pearl ropes of 54 inches and longer, are excellent choices for women wanting to add some extravagant glamor, or who are interested in wearing layered pearl necklaces.


Step 8 - Discover Your Pearl Jewelry Style

Pearl Necklaces and Earrings in Different Styles with Black Jewelry Boxes


Chances are, you already have an idea of the type of jewelry you’d like to buy, whether it is a pair of pearl earrings, a strand of pearls or a pretty pearl pendant. But many people get stuck trying to decide on a design or style.


A few more questions to ask yourself before buying cultured pearl jewelry are:

    • Does the person you’re buying for have a traditional style? If so, opt for classic white pearl necklaces, simple pearl stud earrings or a single strand pearl bracelet.

    • If they prefer to wear pearls that are more modern in style, then consider items like sleek Tin Cup necklaces, long pearl ropes, colorful ombré strands or long pearl dangle earrings.

    • Do they prefer slim, minimalist and dainty jewelry? Or are they more ostentatious with the jewelry they like to wear?

    • Do they prefer white or yellow gold? If they wear a wedding ring or other daily favorite piece of jewelry, consider coordinating with that.

    • If there is a particular event that the pearls are being purchased for, like a wedding? If so, take into consideration the neckline and style of dress that she’ll be wearing so that the pearls complement the attire rather than interfere or steal the spotlight.


Answer a few of these questions, and you’re well on your way to buying the perfect pearl jewelry for your loved ones, or yourself!

And that’s How to Buy Pearls like a pro! If you have any questions about your pearl jewelry purchase, feel free to contact us any time. We’d be happy to discuss your concerns and ideas.


The Perfect Strand of Pearls

Fine Japanese Akoya Pearls

The perfect strand of pearls... Is it possible?

Perfectly round, beautifully matched, with a mirror like luster – Japanese Akoya pearls can’t be matched for quality and high-end appeal. This is the classic pearl necklace.  

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