Japanese Akoya pearls are the world's most famous cultured pearls.

Loved and cherished for their classic white colors, mirrro-like luster, perfectly round shapes and moderate sizes, Akoya pearls have been the "go-to" pearl of choice for women around the world since they first gained notoriety during the early 19th century. Whether you're shopping for a lustrous Akoya pearl necklace, a classic pair of pearl stud earrings, or a milestone anniversary present, choosing the right place to make your purchase can make all the difference in the quality, value and enjoyment of your shopping experience.  

The biggest challenge for pearl jewelry shoppers is that Akoya pearls are sold through a wide variety of retailers - from luxury brands like Mikimoto or Cartier, to online pearl specialists like Pearls of Joy, large jewelry chains, warehouse clubs like Costco, and online marketplaces such as eBay. This makes finding and choosing the right retailer for you a dizzying prospect, as the shopping experience and the pearl quality you will receive for your budget can vary dramatically.

That's why we've written this quick guide comparing the Best Places To Buy Akoya Pearls, which examines the most popular places to find Akoya pearl jewelry, looks at their pros and cons, and is here is to help you find a retailer you can trust as your jeweler of choice for years to come.

📢 Read More: Akoya Pearl Buyer's Guide

Pro-Tip💡

“One of the biggest mistakes I see buyers make is assuming all pearl retailers have the same level of expertise. Pearls are incredibly nuanced. Luster, matching, surface quality, nacre thickness, and overtone all play a role in what you're getting. Working with a retailer like Pearls of Joy that specializes in pearls gives you access to education and guidance that most general jewelry stores simply can't provide."

Kevin Canning
Founder, Pearls of Joy

📢 Read More: Pearl Grading Made Simple

Another alternative option for buying Akoya pearls is to shop around on online platforms like eBay, Etsy or Amazon, which host thousands of independent sellers from around the world. There are some definite pros to buying from these various platforms, ranging from being able to score a deal on a vintage strand of Mikimoto Akoya pearls, to getting unique pearl jewelry created by an indie jeweler to choosing from a nearly endless array of vendors with a wide variety of styles, qualities, and price points to suit practically any budget.

That said, we always urge high levels of caution when attempting to buy from platforms like these - if you aren't familiar with the ins and outs of the Akoya pearl type, such as what types of blemishes are acceptable, what kind of shapes and matching jobs to expect, what luster should look like, etc., then you could end up overpaying for lower quality pearls, or worse yet: like the example above you end up buying commercial quality Chinese Freshwater pearls being passed off as genuine saltwater Akoya. If you've purchased from an essentially anonymous overseas vendor, your chances at getting a refund for the botched purchase are very slim to say the least. At Pearls of Joy, we just cannot emphasize enough how important pearl education is to our clients.

Even should you decide to stick with Amazon to protect your ability to get a refund, we believe the relationships that are made when you choose to buy from a dedicated pearl specialist rather than a monolithic platform stuffed with thousands of faceless vendors leaves the shopping experience cold and transactional, and lacks any chance to bring up questions, concerns or customize your pearls so that they're the perfect fit for you.  

Pros:

• Large platforms with thousands of vendors to choose from.Your choices will be nearly endless in terms of sellers, pearl qualities, sizes, styles and price points to choose from.

• Vintage Akoya pearl jewelry and artisan-crafted bespoke designs can be found on certain platforms,if you search thoroughly, and know what to look for.
  

Cons:

• Anonymous vendors have less accountability towards customers. 

• Refund timelines vary from 0 to 30 or 60 days depending on the platform. We do recommend avoiding dealing with overseas sellers who can make getting a refund almost impossible. Pearls of Joy offers a 100-day policy, you have much more time to decide whether your purchase is actually right for you.

• Little to zero on pearl education. Pearl education resources are highly to extremely limited; you will mostly have to rely on the seller's description and photos. If you are not familiar with the Akoya pearl type, getting scammed online is an easy situation to find yourself in.

• Risk is High. Whether you're dealing with Amazon (safer), Etsy (mostly safe) or eBay (questionable), it is always the buyer's responsibility to do their research and make sure that their transaction is valid, and you're buying exactly what you had in mind.

📢 Read More: Guide To Pearl Types

Shopping for Akoya pearl jewelry at a traditional jewelry store chain like Ben Bridge, Zales, Helzberg, etc., is a very "safe" feeling experience for most jewelry shoppers - this is the way that shoppers have bought pearl jewelry for generations, and the feeling of familiarity and brand recognition rests very strongly with many people all over the world. The in-person shopping experience is instantly gratifying; you get to see the pearls in your hands and how they react to light and complement your skin tone in real time. You also get to bring your new pearls home with you that day, and are typically covered by a 30 day return and exchange period, which bolsters confidence in the purchase.

On the other hand, many of these traditional jewelry stores will have a fairly limited inventory on hand to choose from. The corporate buyers for these chains will be purchasing pearls soley to appeal to the wider buying market (and their targeted economic demographics), which will limit your choices to what has been deemed as "trendy", such as pearl and diamond pendants or the classics, like the white Akoya pearl necklace, or a pair of simple Akoya pearl stud earrings. Your ability to customize or tailor your pearls in terms of length adjustments, swapping gold colors, or choosing a particular, more flattering overtone for your complexion, is practically non-existant ... at a traditional jewelry store, what you see is what you get.

Other "cons" exist too. Mainly, you will have to pay for additional markups, as the pearls will not be sourced directly from the pearl farmers or auctions, but from other traditional wholesale sources that definitely do add on their own markup to their pearls. These added costs are automatically folded in to any total retail price you will pay for your pearls - and that is in addition to the overhead associated with running a traditional jewelry store such as leasing, staff, advertising, insurance, etc. Often, markups at traditional jewelry stores can be anywhere from 300-500% ... which is huge compared to Pearls of Joy.

Pros:

• Perfect for buyers who want an in-person shopping experience, and who want to bring their purchase home that same day.

• One-on-one guidance and instant feedback, from sales associates about how the pearls look on your when worn, and you can have most of your questions answered instantly.

• Decades-old reputations,really gives shoppers a sense of security and familiarity

• Decent to solid return and exchange policies, so you are able to get a refund and even extended warranties on your purchase.  

Cons:

• Limited inventory and selection of pearls to choose from;what you see is what you get.

• Sales associates are not trained pearl specialists. They are primarily trained in diamonds, diamond bridal and some precious gemstone jewelry, not pearls, so the information they are able to give you about your purchase will be limited to the basics.
  
  

• Reduced return and exchange periods.Many traditional jewelry stores will only give you 30 days to ask for a refund, while online specialists will offer much more generous return windows.

Pro-Tip💡

"When it comes to Akoya pearls, selection matters more than most people realize. The larger a retailer's inventory, the more opportunities they have to hand-select the best pearls and create better-matched jewelry. Two 8mm Akoya necklaces can look completely different depending on the quality of the pearls chosen. A deep inventory allows specialists to be far more selective."
Kevin Canning
Founder, Pearls of Joy

Customers looking to score a deal on Akoya pearl jewelry are - believe it or not - not too bad off shopping at Costco. We know, we didn't believe it either ... until we saw the pearls. They're actually quite nice, with good to very good luster, nice surface quality, and are well-priced. Overall we think you'll get a decent deal here.

And major bonus: Costco does not have a strict return window for their members. This means that if the pearls are in very good to excellent condition, you may be able to return your pearls for a refund for a year or more, which is unheard of in the world of jewelry.

That said, the selection is pretty limited to just a few pieces - a few strands, some pearl pendants and pairs of earrings in Akoya, Freshwater and some Tahitian or South Sea pearl types. It's really not all that extensive, and you are not going to be able to choose from multiple sizes, styles or qualities, and you will not be able to customize the jewelry unless you take it to a private jeweler that has a stringer on staff.

Costco also does not use any grading scales, either. From their site: "Unlike diamonds, pearls do not have a global standardized grading system. Therefore, Costco does not list grades on our pearl items. Our process ensures our pearls have good luster, shape, color and no obvious blemishes, and that the size of the pearls match where applicable." So customers have to rely on the look of the pearls the store has on hand, and their say-so that the pearls are of fine quality, which ... we don't love.

As with many of the other retail options for buying Akoya pearl jewelry, the sales associates are not trained in pearl education, so most of the information to be gained from them will be reciting the technical descriptions on the sales tags, and will not go deeper than that (and again will not list any grading information). This makes it difficult to know if you are getting high-quality pearls at a discounted price, or mass-market pearls at a price you shouldn't be paying, as most customers are not being equipped with the knowledge and visual examples of what they should be looking for when they're shopping for Akoya pearls.

Overall, we don't think Costco is a bad place to buy pearls, but do go in to the experience prepared with a good amount of knowledge about Akoya pearls so you can know before you buy what you are looking at, and how to assess their quality and whether the pearls would be a good value for their price.

Pros:

• In-person shopping, you can handle the pearls, try them on in the store and bring your jewelry home with you that day.

• Discounted prices for members -prices for their jewelry from pearls to diamonds have been discounted for paying members of these warehouse associations.

• Open window return and exchange policies - members are able to wear and return their pearls for a full refund for over a year, which is the longest return window in the jewelry industry.

Cons:

• Limited inventory and selection of pearls to choose from;what you see is what you get. Limited selection of Akoya strands, pendants and earrings, limited to just one or two designs in each category.

• Sales associates are not trained pearl specialists. They are primarily trained in diamonds, diamond bridal and some precious gemstone jewelry, not pearls, so the information they are able to give you about your purchase will be limited to the basics.
  
  
• No pearl grading or grading guidance available - Costco does not use any A-AAA grading systems for their Akoya pearls, so it's hard for shoppers to truly know if the pearls are truly high quality unless they're experienced in dealing with Akoya pearls

Luxury retailers occupy the highest end of the Akoya pearl market.

No discussion of Akoya pearls would be complete without mentioning Mikimoto, founded by Kokichi Mikimoto, the man credited with pioneering cultured pearl production in Japan. Shopping for Akoya pearls at a flagship Mikimoto Pearl location is definitely an elevated experience, complete with a very luxurious jewelry salon, sophisticated retail associates that are specially trained on cultured pearls and some of the finest Japanese Akoya pearls you can find. While Mikimoto no longer farms their own pearls, they do happen to get "first pick" of the Akoya pearl harvests, and buys only the top 1% of each harvest for their collections, so buying Akoya pearls from Mikimoto you are guaranteed to own top-tier pearls, expertly crafted with the finest materials.  

Other high-end options include Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Assael, etc. ... Tiffany & Co. is a great jewelry house with history reaching back over a century, and they do provide their customers with a very pretty selection of Akoya pearls which includes classic items, and some designer-exclusive collections that can't be found anywhere else.

For shoppers who are looking to indulge in the ultimate luxury jewelry experience, then going to one of these fabled brand names may be well worth the price. The branding, the packaging, the pearls themselves and the personal, one-on-one attention all combine to create a memorable experience. For buyers looking to maximize their budget for value however, these luxury brands may not be the best fit. Luxury retail comes with luxury price tags, often 10-20xs higher  than what you could purchase online for similar quality and style. For example, a classic Akoya pearl necklace from Mikimoto in their A+ grade, 7.0-7.5mm, will cost around $11,000.00 USD (this is the highest grade they carry online as of this writing, their flagship locations do have access to their AAA Quality Akoya strands upon special request). A similar strand of certified Hanadama Akoya pearls from Pearls of Joy will be around $3,500 to $5,000 USD, depending on whether we are running a sale or not.

In addition to very high luxury markups, other "cons" to shopping with a luxury brand are similar to shopping with a traditional jewelry retail chain, namely: the inventory is limited in scope in terms of designs, sizes, pearl qualities and colors you can choose from. Customization or tailoring your pearl jewelry with different clasps, lengths or overtone preferences are not easily available, or are limited to just one or two options. Return and exchange windows are short (Mikimoto's is only 14 days). Besides Mikimoto who are pearl specialists, other luxury brand staff will not be as educated on pearls as their other diamond and gemstone jewelry lines, which are the majority of their sales. Akoya pearl shoppers who want value, lustrous beauty, incredible selection and not just a brand name, then opting for an online pearl specialist is your best option.

Pros:

• High standards for craftsmanship and beauty.Akoya pearls will be some of the highest quality available, metals will be crafted from solid 18K and 14K Gold, diamonds should be top-tier quality

• Luxury experience for shoppers, from salon to staff.This includes private viewing rooms and couches, wine and cheese platters, beautiful showrooms that drip with opulence, and sophisticated associates that will cater to your every need.
  
  
• Unique, designer-exclusive designs that can only be purchased from that specific brand.
  
  

• Luxury branded packaging, hallmarks and presentation make your purchase feel even more special.
  

• In-person viewing allows you to handle the pearls in various lighting conditions, and to try them on to see how they look and complement your complexion.

Cons:

• High luxury retail markups,making the retail price you pay as much as 10-20xs what you would if you were buying similar quality from an online specialist retailer

• Inventory is limited to what is on-hand,in the store, and will not be as extensive as an online retailer can offer in terms of designs, lengths, pearl sizes or qualities for you to choose from

• Little to very limited ability to tailor your pearl jewelry to your exact preferences.

• Short return and exchange windows as little as 14 days from the date of purchase.

📢 Read More: Hanadama Pearls 101: The Ferrari of the Pearl World

Buying Akoya pearl jewelry for the first time can seem a little overwhelming with all the choices, grading scales, necklace lengths, pearl sizes, etc. Take a deep breath though, because your first piece of prized Akoya pearl jewelry is actually a lot easier than you think when you stick with some tried-and-true recommendations from pearl experts and happy customers over the years.

This quick guide will feature our top recommendations for each major Akoya pearl jewelry style - from necklaces to bracelets and pendants - and why these picks might just be your perfect choice. Whether you’re looking for something utterly timeless and classic, or are after a style that’s a bit more modern and unique, these recommendations are amongst our most popular and enduring choices for buyers that are sure to be a hit.

📢 Read More: How To Choose The Perfect Necklace Length

Final thoughts: whether you're shopping for your first Akoya pearl necklace, a pair of classic pearl stud earrings, or an heirloom worthy Hanadama necklace, taking the time to compare retailers makes all the difference in making a fair purchase. By learning and understanding what makes Akoya pearls special, and finding a retailer that can offer you expert guidance, clear and understandable grading standards and a beautifully curated selection to choose from, you’ll be far more comfortable making a purchase that you’ll love for decades to come.

At Pearls of Joy, our dedicated and passionate pearl experts are here to guide you every step of the way, with specialized knowledge most retailers just can’t match. With decades of experience dealing exclusively in cultured pearls, we’ve created some of the most comprehensive pearl education resources to help you understand pearl quality, compare options and buy with confidence. Kevin’s commitment to providing a solid pearl education, paired with personalized customer service has earned the trust of thousands of satisfied customers around the world.

By sourcing our pearls direct from the pearl farms and auctions overseas unlike most major retailers, and carefully selecting every Akoya pearl in our jewelry to ensure it meets our high standards of luster, clean surfaces and meticulous matching, we are proud to offer our buyers an outstanding combination of beauty, transparency and value. From lustrous Akoya pearl necklaces to PSL Certified Hanadama collections, we handcraft every item to order, giving you unbeatable opportunities to tailor your Akoya pearls by choosing size, length, quality, mountings and even overtone, creating a pearl jewelry style that reflects your ideals. Whether you’re celebrating a special birthday, giving a memorable holiday gift, or adding a luxury piece to an existing collection, Pearls of Joy is proud to offer the expertise and selection to help you find the perfect Akoya pearl jewelry with confidence.

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• Freshwater vs. Saltwater Pearls